The Road Not Taken

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.

- Robert Frost

the 1 less traveled by

A move to Nicaragua

Browsing Tag:

Nicaragua

Stop the Madness

Easter Week in Nicaragua

Stop The Semana Santa Madness!

It is a Nicaraguan tradition to head to the beach for the Easter week holiday. Nicarguans get Thursday, Friday, and the weekend as vacation days, so many take advantage of the time off and head the the beaches even earlier in the week. The little town we live in, San Juan del Sur is the #1 spot to party in Nicaragua for what is called Semana Santa (Holy Week). Last year, listening to the advise of veteran Expats and being new to Nicaragua and San Juan del Sur, we decided to vacation at a friend’s surf camp in Northern Nica where we felt safer from the mayhem.

This year we decided to stay in San Juan del Sur and experience what everyone was talking about. We had seen pictures, but were still stunned to see the large stages beginning to be erected in mid March. Over Christmas and New Years I had seen our grocery store packed with visitors and quickly running out food, so we planned ahead and bought groceries early in the week with the plan of eating at home for every meal.

Stocked up and within the confines of our home outside of town, things were actually quite peaceful. When we did venture out with the kids, we went to places out of town like Eden on the Chocolata for their pizza night, and Surf Ranch Resort & Villas de Palermo for a swim. Our grounds keeper’s daughters were out of school like Azalea and she had a blast playing all day with the older girls and jumping on our new trampoline. We also enjoyed a nice Easter day egg hunt with friends at our house.

We dropped our son, Titus, off with Juanita on the Saturday and headed into the mayhem with a small camera and very little money. Here are some of the pictures we took.

To give you an idea of the difference between Semana Santa & a normal Friday afternoon. I took these pictures of the same locations to compare the two occasions.

Top is the beach on Saturday of Semana Santa, the bottom is the following Friday
Top is the beach on Saturday of Semana Santa, the bottom is the following Friday
Top is Club Claro. The bottom is what this space usually looks like..just an empty lot.
Top is Club Claro. The bottom is what this space usually looks like..just an empty lot.
This is Kharron's office covered in a Flora de Cana club. The bottom is what Kharron's office looks like on a normal week here.
This is Kharron’s office covered in a Flora de Cana club. The bottom is what Kharron’s office looks like on a normal week here.
Happy Girl with her eggs

Easter in San Juan del Sur

Easter week is pretty crazy here in San Juan del Sur, because it is a Nicaraguan tradition to head to the beach for “Semana Santa” (Holy Week). Our first year here, we visited a friend in Northern Nicaragua where it was much less crowded. This year we decided to stay and experience at least one Easter holiday in our home town.

Last minute I decided to plan a small Easter party at our house. I was on the fence about planning something because I wasn’t sure I wanted to spend my Sunday morning preparing for a party instead of just enjoying the day with my family. Then, one of the first things Azalea asked me in the morning was where her Easter dress was. I had to rummage through her closet for something “special” to wear. She got dressed up with “Easter shoes” on before the clock struck 7am. That settled it for me, we must do something fun for the kids.

Happily a few friends were able to come over to enjoy the day, then we headed to the Playa Hermosa for some relaxation and a cool down in the ocean.

Nicaragua Airport

7 Things to Expect when you Land in Nicaragua

  1. Download WhatsApp on your smart phone. – This is the way that a lot of people communicate here. Most restaurants and bars have WiFi and have no issue giving you the password. WhatsAppThis way it is easy to let your taxi driver know you’re ready to be picked up, or set up a time to meet with that cool person you just met.
  2. Download Waze on your smart phone. – This application is the best for navigating Nicaragua. Google’s navigation will take you on the shortest road, but since it isn’t used as often, it can’t wazecalculate that the road is dirt, through a neighborhood, and will take 5 times as long. Since Nica’s use Waze it always knows the best routes, it will steer you around a traffic jam, and there are lots of fun voices you can download to make your drive more fun.
  3. One of the few things that Nicaragua cares about is the importation of cell phones. It is best to keep your cell phone in your pocket so it is seen as personal use and not to be sold. If they don’t like something in your bag it’ll get pulled to a side table.  From what I’m told if you only speak English to these guys they get frustrated and let you go.  It worked for us (by default) when we first got here with two packaged iPhones in our suitcase.  Which is really all they’re looking for, iPhones.  They didn’t bother us about the other 3 phones in our pockets, 2 tablets, 2 laptops, car stereo, etc.
  4. There will be young men in white shirts lined up asking if you need help with your luggage (in Spanish). Use these guys! Pay them about a dollar per bag. Which means have some small bills on Helpers at Aeropuerto Internacional Augusto C Sandinoyou when you land. You need about 1 guy for every 4 bags. Save each bag sticker you get when you check your luggage in your departure city and have them ready to give to the guys with your bags after they’ve collected them.  There will be a man who checks your sticker to make sure it matches to your bag.  The young men will carry all of your luggage to a conveyor, place it on there, then they will take it off and load it up into your mode of transportation.
  5. After you get your bags you are ready to exit the customs area into the swarms of people pressed up against the glass windows peering at you like your are their next meal, tumblr_lbn3p8wSF61qa2nz2o1_500like a scene from The Walking Dead. As frightening as this may look, its only people looking for their loved ones to chauffeur them home.
  6. There are very few street lights outside of Managua. – You most likely will land at night, that seems to be when a majority of the flights aboard come in. If that is the case, then expect chaos in Managua and darkness anything outside of that. There are not many street lights on the freeways in Nicaragua and people, cows, horses, and bicyclers seem to have to no qualms meandering in the middle of the dark road. Which leaves me to my last point…
  7. Hire a driver and have transportation set up. – We still do not feel comfortable driving outside of San Juan del Sur at night, and even here can be sketchy. There are many shuttle companies in place to make this drive for you. Then all you have to do is close your eyes and hold on tight until you get to your destination.
Heavy load to pull today

What to do for St Patrick’s Day in Nicaragua

St Paddy’s Day in San Juan del Sur

This was our second St Patrick’s Day while living in Nicaragua. The first landed only a couple weeks after we landed in this country. As awesome it was, the true beauty of celebrating this holiday in a foreign country that we are used to rejoicing in the United States, was not as deeply appreciated as it was this year.

Azalea’s school, San Juan del Sur Day School, organizes an ox cart ride around town for the students every year. Last year Azalea was only 3 and too young to be able to ride in the cart, but this year she was able to be part of the parade instead of just a spectator. She was all smiles as she passed by with her class and teacher.

Later in the day those same ox carts are used to in an annual pub crawl that is coordinated by one of our local Irishmen, John Crilly (also the co founder & husband of the school’s Director). To read more about this pub crawl and see pictures from past years, please read In Nica Now’s blog entry on this topic. As a parent, it is hard to take part in this event, so I must give photo credits to DanCesar.com and Elisha MacKay from In Nica Now.

What not to do

7 Things not to do in Nicaragua

7 Stupid Things Tourists Do

1. Feel sorry for the people.

Often I hear tourists talk about how sad it is for the people of Nicaragua. That they are so poor and must be miserable. If they took off their North American lenses, they’d see the genuine smiles I admire daily on local Nicaraguans. Tourists see laundry drying on a line, a small home, and people sitting out in front of their house at night in plastic chairs and assume that they are unhappy. Don’t mistake cultural differences with happiness.

2. Want to bring one of the poor animals home.

Tourists have an urge to adopt. They want to give that poor dog they see on the street a better life. I can tell you, my dog has never been happier than living here in Nicaragua. In the United States, all she did all day was sleep on her pillow-top bed under an attached blanket. The highlight of her day was one trip to the park (if I had time) and dinner. Here, she spends her whole day hunting inside bushes, chasing birds, watching geckos crawl across walls, and following our gardener around the large yard. She gets to go to any beach off leash and most restaurants find no problem with a dog coming inside. Most of the dogs here roam free. They are allowed to dig in trash cans, urinate & dedicate where ever they want, chase people, make doggy-friends, and fornicate when nature calls.

I think as Americans we believe that dogs are happiest on top of a nice, overly-stuffed bed with an owner who treats them like a human. I have to disagree. Looking back, I think my dog was bored. She didn’t have anything else to do but sleep and eat. I took her to the park for maybe 30 minutes a day. She was overweight and possibly depressed.

3. Rush around.

Every visitor we’ve had greets us with an air of expedition. This is supposed to be a relaxing vacation and they are in a hurry to go someplace to relax. They want to plan multiple things to see and are nervous that it might not get all done. How can they see fit in relaxing at the beach on the same day as seeing a volcano? They need to swim in the lake at Laguna de Apoyo, but might as well quickly check out Granada while so close. Even my retired parents found themselves frustrated by the pace of Nicaragua. Why does the food take so long at a restaurant? Can’t they open another line at the grocery store? Why are there so many bikers in the way on the road? I find myself relating less and unable to process the nervous energy of my guests. Its like the Tanzanian Devil walking beside you on the beach. A cloud of dust swirling around, unable to land and truly enjoy anything.

4. Assume that everyone speaks English or wants to learn.

We made the same mistake when we moved to Nicaragua and were slapped in the face by the fact that many people here neither speak English nor desire to learn it. We have struggled to learn to communicate with the locals. We try daily through much frustration to master Spanish. It is painful to hear tourists passively say that Nicaraguans need to learn English. That is a ludicrous statement and equal to a Mexican in California saying that California’s need to learn Spanish. Would both parties benefit from the ability to speak the other language? Yes. But that does not mean that the person will never be able to meet their full potential if it is not learned. The native language here is Spanish, so do your best to try to communicate in that language. There are many phone applications now that can help you do this with ease. Nicaraguans are very accepting people and with a little bit of effort you will find they have great patience and enjoy the chance to help you learn their native tongue.

5. Get robbed.

Charlie on Travel wrote a great article about how not to get robbed in Central America. Let me sum it up for you: don’t wear your most expensive jewelry or go parading around in name brand attire & accessories, don’t keep your whole wad of cash in your wallet for everyone to see when you’re making purchases, don’t get so intoxicated that you loose your wits about you, don’t leave your valuables on the beach/table/bar/community dorm room.

If you must carry a phone- especially an iPhone- always be conscious of where you leave it and where you’re using it. If its only to take pictures, then consider using an actual camera. If you wouldn’t do it in Los Angeles, then what makes you think it would be safe to do it in the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere (*Forbes)?

6. Expect Nicaragua to be just like its neighboring countries.

Is the United States just like Mexico? Then why would you think Nicaragua is? I often hear tourists surprised that Nicaragua is so different than their trips to other Central American countries. This is not to say that some days I don’t long for the civil engineering of Anywhere, Mexico, but I did not land here expecting it. Every country has it own attributes. That’s why we travel to different countries, not to see how they are all the same, but to experience something different.

7. Give money to beggars.

Our little town, San Juan del Sur has a drinking and drug problem. The sweet little kids who sell hammocks are high on glue, the man mumbling to himself and asking for money is drunk and will be passed out in the street in a few hours. These people don’t need your money. If you are in the donating mood, there is an abundance of non profits you could give to and insure your money is going to the right cause.

Woo in Puerto Viejo

How to vacation in style and on the cheap

Living in Nicaragua – Vacation from Paradise

We just took our first real vacation since moving to Nicaragua over a year ago. We honestly thought we’d do more of this, but then life happens, and *poof* a year goes by. We are only on a tourist VISA in Nicaragua, which means every 90 days we need to exit the country and re-enter to renew our VISA. This time instead of leaving and entering turn-style, we made a vacation out of it It was well worth the wait, Puerto Viejo – Costa Rica was beautiful! A couple things we learned:

1. Bring your nanny

Nicaragua has strong labor laws, so we’d have to pay our house cleaner/nanny her salary while we were away. So, we decided why not bring her? Since we were going to another country we needed to either pay for an 8 day pass or get her a passport. We decided to go with the passport since this was in the best interest of our future vacations. It ended up costing $50 for the passport and $33 for 3 month VISA to Costa Rica. At the borders we also paid for her taxes ($9) and entrance ($2).

It was great having an extra hand to help with the kids. My husband, Kharron and I were able to have conversations over dinner, go swimming together, rent bikes for a self-directed pub crawl, and go to a movie. Kharron worked some while we were on vacation and having Juanita there meant I could enjoy some individual time with one of the kids while the other napped.

2. Pay for a cuiador

We have 2 dogs and a cat who are used to a certain degree of lifestyle which includes sleeping indoors and meals promptly served. Juanita’s husband is not only a trusted friend, but also cheap labor. It cost us $10 for the 5 days were were gone for him to make sure the cat’s bowl had food, that there was water in the bowl outside, feed the dogs breakfast and let them out for the day, then feed them dinner and lock them in the house for the night. One of our dogs needs to take an incontinence pill twice a day and he even administered that for us so we didn’t come back to a home smelling of urine. Our dogs spend most of the day outside anyway, following our community’s gardener around, so I’m sure they were happy with this routine.

3. Rent a car and make sure you print your credit card’s insurance coverage

This is a mistake we made, but we won’t let it happen again. In Costa Rica if you decline the rental company coverage, they need to validate that your credit card will cover, otherwise they will need to take a very large deposit and you have to pay for their coverage. It would have been very simple for us to print the policy out to give to the rental agency. Instead it cost us a lot more money than intended and a lot of fuss before our long drive.

4. Reserve early

If you’re going anywhere during high season, make sure you reserve your hotel early and compare prices at the various reservation websites. Our hotel in San Jose had a deal running on Expedia the week we were there. We ended up having to move hotels while in Puerto Viejo and our options were very limited.